Long before surfboards became mass produced and made of foam and fiberglass, they were made in Hawaii of scrap wood, heavy, and without fins. Called "alaia", they were the pre-20th century standard and are now enjoying a resurgence among surfers looking for a bit more challenge.
Cyrus Sutton, a surfer and filmmaker in Encinitas, Calif., has shaped alaias in his backyard. “The alaia has a mind of its own,” he said. “It bends and snakes with the wave. It’s alive under your feet. And the speed is just ridiculous.”
Richard Kenvin, a former pro surfer from San Diego, credits the alaia with giving him “some of the most magical feelings I’ve ever had.”
Chad Marshall, a surfer in Malibu, Calif., known for his flamboyant longboard riding, said: “I like the friction-free vibe. I like that it slots you in that sweet spot on the wave. They put you in check. They show you how difficult and beautiful and pure it was for the ancient Hawaiians.”
It does seem rare that a sport consider old hardware and techniques. Imagine professional cyclists or golfers wanting a new challenge and deciding they wanted to learn to use 40 pound, 3 speed bicycles or wooden clubs.
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